Hi all. I want to replace my tin oil pan for a nice aluminium one. My question is, are all the 350 oil pans the same or do different engines have different pans ?
Thanks
Oil pan
- knockdolian
- Posts: 628
- Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 3:44 pm
- Location: Yeovil Somerset UK
Re: Oil pan
I’ve emailed BH but as with other questions I have asked they haven’t replied. I get the feeling they are only interested in people who spend $40K ?
Re: Oil pan
I don't know the frame design on the trike but if the front half is the same as the bikes you have a crossmember just below the pan that does not allow the pan to be dropped.
You either split the frame and remove the engine out the back etc. or cut the crossmember, drop the pan easily then when finished weld flanges on to the cut crossmember and the frame 'stubs' and bolt up again. The engine is a stressed member and stronger than the crossmember so the flange arrangement is fine - paint it gloss black and it's also out of sight and doesn't show.
You either split the frame and remove the engine out the back etc. or cut the crossmember, drop the pan easily then when finished weld flanges on to the cut crossmember and the frame 'stubs' and bolt up again. The engine is a stressed member and stronger than the crossmember so the flange arrangement is fine - paint it gloss black and it's also out of sight and doesn't show.
Re: Oil pan
I've often wondered why the cross member is even required ?Zepman wrote:I don't know the frame design on the trike but if the front half is the same as the bikes you have a crossmember just below the pan that does not allow the pan to be dropped.
You either split the frame and remove the engine out the back etc. or cut the crossmember, drop the pan easily then when finished weld flanges on to the cut crossmember and the frame 'stubs' and bolt up again. The engine is a stressed member and stronger than the crossmember so the flange arrangement is fine - paint it gloss black and it's also out of sight and doesn't show.
Re: Oil pan
My 2 cents is , do NOT buy an aluminum pan unless it is a from a good manufacturer. The "knockoff" pans may look nice with an attractive price tag, but the fit will give you grief. Either the radius at the corners will be wrong, or the holes will need to be filed to allow the bolts to align with the block holes. Even steel pans can be junk, so check the reviews !
I agree with Jack about the crossover being needed. I made mine removable because I was changing everything anyhow.
Once you get one, get the sawzall out and have fun !
Then ,you'll be thinking about an oil pump, and looking at the bearings, and then ARP bolts and then .......!
I agree with Jack about the crossover being needed. I made mine removable because I was changing everything anyhow.
Once you get one, get the sawzall out and have fun !
Then ,you'll be thinking about an oil pump, and looking at the bearings, and then ARP bolts and then .......!
Re: Oil pan
I would cut my crossmember out if I ever had to and add a remove able water pump bottom plate . That idea I really like .
- rocketsteve
- Posts: 293
- Joined: Fri Dec 16, 2016 2:01 pm
Re: Oil pan
Do you have that crossmember at the front Paul?
I would think all our ZZ4's are the same but what's the attraction of an Ally Pan?
Might be a bit vulnerable and soft towards the rear if you hit speed bumps etc.
I would think all our ZZ4's are the same but what's the attraction of an Ally Pan?
Might be a bit vulnerable and soft towards the rear if you hit speed bumps etc.
To test a man's character, give him (Hoss) power.
- knockdolian
- Posts: 628
- Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 3:44 pm
- Location: Yeovil Somerset UK
Re: Oil pan
My trike started life as a 96 bike. It was tricked later.Zepman wrote:I don't know the frame design on the trike but if the front half is the same as the bikes you have a crossmember just below the pan that does not allow the pan to be dropped.
You either split the frame and remove the engine out the back etc. or cut the crossmember, drop the pan easily then when finished weld flanges on to the cut crossmember and the frame 'stubs' and bolt up again. The engine is a stressed member and stronger than the crossmember so the flange arrangement is fine - paint it gloss black and it's also out of sight and doesn't show.
Thanks
- knockdolian
- Posts: 628
- Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 3:44 pm
- Location: Yeovil Somerset UK
Re: Oil pan
Hi Steve. I have no idea what engine I have but sure it’s not zz4. The bike as it was was bought direct from the factory in 96. I have no issues cutting the cross member out and flagging it. I replaced the transmission pan last year with a nice B&M aluminium deep pan to assist cooling when towing. Went on well and looks much nicer than the tin pan which leaked. I’d like to match it with an engine pan. There seems to be several alternatives and was hoping there was an easy way to identify which one I have. I take the point about getting a quality one.rocketsteve wrote:Do you have that crossmember at the front Paul?
I would think all our ZZ4's are the same but what's the attraction of an Ally Pan?
Might be a bit vulnerable and soft towards the rear if you hit speed bumps etc.
- rocketsteve
- Posts: 293
- Joined: Fri Dec 16, 2016 2:01 pm
Re: Oil pan
Ignore what I said about speed bumps etc, your oil cooler will hit before anything else down there!
I imagine this Ally pan is Tig welded construction rather than a pressing.
It's food for thought about re-configuring the cross member.
I was probably thinking of Steve in Cullumpton as his Trike is a ZZ4, I don't know what year these engine units were used from...
I imagine this Ally pan is Tig welded construction rather than a pressing.
It's food for thought about re-configuring the cross member.
I was probably thinking of Steve in Cullumpton as his Trike is a ZZ4, I don't know what year these engine units were used from...
To test a man's character, give him (Hoss) power.
- knockdolian
- Posts: 628
- Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 3:44 pm
- Location: Yeovil Somerset UK
Re: Oil pan
The one I put on my transmission is a B&M cast one. Nice and heavy cast onerocketsteve wrote:Ignore what I said about speed bumps etc, your oil cooler will hit before anything else down there!
I imagine this Ally pan is Tig welded construction rather than a pressing.
It's food for thought about re-configuring the cross member.
I was probably thinking of Steve in Cullumpton as his Trike is a ZZ4, I don't know what year these engine units were used from...