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I installed Dyna ceramic balance beads (E-Z tire beads shown in photo) in my 2001 Boss Hoss' front tire. Why? Because I got tired of this desert heat melting the 3M from the stick-on weights and having them flop off onto the pavement every time I turned around. I have not had a chance to ride the Hoss with the beads in the front tire yet because it's down for other repairs, so I cannot report on how they ride. Installation was not very tricky, but it did require a wee bit of patience. Here's what I used:

1. Hydraulic floor jack
2. Jack stands
3. 2 ounce package of Dyna balance beads (based on their recommendation for my particular tire)
4. Plastic bottle with funnel top
5. Plastic tube (same as the tube that comes with brake bleeding kits)
6. Tire valve removal tool
7. Black electrical tape to attach the tube to the valve stem and bottle to avoid a disconnect and spillage
8. Portable air compressor (mine is a low-budget $50 electric Kobalt 0791911)

Naturally, I started by jacking up the Hoss then supporting it with stands.

Removing the tire valve was a snap. The Dyna-provided tool worked fine.

Getting the plastic tube to fit over the valve stem was simple: I jammed the end of a large Philips screwdriver into it then heated it with a cigarette lighter. This stretched the tube's end enough to slip over the valve stem without a fight.

Next up: electrical tape to hold the tube in place at both ends. Attach the tape low enough that you can see the top of the valve stem; don't conceal the top of the stem. Attaching the opposite end of the tube to the plastic bottle was a breeze. No heating or stretching required.

Next up: apply the balancing beads. The only trick to getting the balance beads into the tire is to ensure a slow, steady trickle like a trail of salt. They will clump up on top of the valve stem if you try to push too many through at once. No worries. If this happens, squeeze the bottle to create suction. It will pull the beads back up. Once the packed-up beads are cleared from the valve stem, tilt the bottle slightly then thump the cap until they start to trickle toward the valve stem again. It is tedious but won't take more than maybe 10 minutes, give or take. Keep thumping/tapping the bottle until all of the beads trickle into the tire. If they clump up again, just repeat the suction to clear it and start over from where you left off. The beads will not get sucked out of the tire, only from the stem.

Once all the beads are inside the tire, reinstall the valve and re-inflate the tire. You will most likely want to inflate to the maximum "cold" pressure indicated on the sidewall to avoid "cupping" of the tread unless experience has taught you otherwise. This is not because of the beads but because of nature of the Boss Hoss. It's not always kind to under-inflated front tires (depends on the tire).

That's it. Simple as can be, and not very time-consuming at all. It just requires a tiny bit of preparation to make sure the pieces-parts don't fight you.

I have had very good success with balancing beads. Run them in m MC's and truck. No problems at all.

Mindless, did you do your front as well or just the rears ?

knockdolian wrote:Mindless, did you do your front as well or just the rears ?

Front only.

I have just ordered beads for front and back wheels. I have an annoying vibration through the bars after about 50 mph. Just gets worse as I get faster. I changed the bearings and renewed the fork oil. I figure £30 of beads may be a good investment

knockdolian wrote:I have just ordered beads for front and back wheels. I have an annoying vibration through the bars after about 50 mph. Just gets worse as I get faster. I changed the bearings and renewed the fork oil. I figure £30 of beads may be a good investment

Silly question, but does your trike have a steering stabilizer (damper)?

The Mindless Philosopher wrote:

knockdolian wrote:I have just ordered beads for front and back wheels. I have an annoying vibration through the bars after about 50 mph. Just gets worse as I get faster. I changed the bearings and renewed the fork oil. I figure £30 of beads may be a good investment

Silly question, but does your trike have a steering stabilizer (damper)?

How is that a silly question ? Answer is no. I did have one but since having the raked trees fitted it’s been off. This vibration isn’t a steering wobble it’s like if I had a bobbly tyre. This is since fitting the Avon trike tyre. Beads will be here tomorrow so we will see by the weekend.

I hope the beads take care of the problem. If not, maybe consider reattaching the steering damper just for giggles? You never can tell. The modified rake may have caused something funny (different weight distrbution at higher speeds?) Seems to me it would have put a tad more weight on the front tire unless you also lengthened the forks? In that case, it might have raised the frame a hair, and you might be catching some wind on the underside that you hadn't before? Hard to say. Keep us posted!

I went out for a test ride after more than a year of the Hoss sitting for scads of nit-picky repairs. I didn't notice any difference with the balance beads. I'll have to let the wear pattern on the front tire be my guide.

That said, the right front rotor squeaks a little at very slow speeds (15 MPH and less), and it gets hotter than the left side. I think a good caliper cleaning might be in order.

Before ripping into the brakes, I've decided to check bolt torques at the front wheel since I started noticing something "off" after having new bearings installed at the local Harley dealership a few hundred miles ago. The front axle pinch bolt on the bottom end of the right fork was definitely in there with the grip of Godzilla. I have no idea whether they messed with it or if it's been like that since before I bought the trike. I figure the latter is most likely the case, as the right front brake assembly was damaged when I bought the Hoss from a friend, and the top of the tire had eaten into the inside of the fender. I backed off the axle pinch bolt tonight then re-torqued it to factory spec (25 lbs-ft); the axle is at 50 lbs. I'll ride some more in the days to come to determine whether the brakes (purchased new and installed around 13-17K miles ago) should be examined.

After loosening and before tightening the pinch
bolt, did you grab the front brake and rock the
frontend up and down a few times??? This lets
the lower leg with the pinch bolt find it's sweet
spot of alignment on the axle. Then tighten the
pinch bolt to the proper torque.

Paul H

Well I installed the beds in all three tyres and vibration has gone yaaaaaaaa

Paul H wrote:After loosening and before tightening the pinch
bolt, did you grab the front brake and rock the
frontend up and down a few times??? This lets
the lower leg with the pinch bolt find it's sweet
spot of alignment on the axle. Then tighten the
pinch bolt to the proper torque.

Paul H

No, the manual didn't say anything about that. No one pointed it out in any of the loosely related videos I've manged to find. I'll give it a go. Thank you, Paul.

Paul H, I gave that a whirl...

I couldn't detect any movement at the axle aside from seeing the trike shake from my manhandling the wheel/fork assembly with the tire off the garage floor. It felt pretty solid. Doesn't mean the pinch bolt didn't allow the axle to move a wee fraction of a hair into its sweet spot, just that I couldn't tell any difference while I was moving it. Probably good news where the bearings are concerned? There was no movement that shouldn't be there. I'll hit the road tomorrow for work. Will see if that seated things any better.

I haven't paid close attention because I've been distracted by squirrely running lights and turn signals, but I have not noticed any faint squealing/rubbing noises from the right front rotor since adjusting the pinch bolt. I forgot to check the heat on the rotor after shutting the trike down. I'll have to keep that in mind and check it next time I'm out.