Crossmember removal

[CanuckHoss]

I have a 2001 trike I brought in from the US a few weeks ago and unfortunately we need to remove the pan....which means making the crossmember removable.

Any pictures / suggestions for where to cut?? I had a car shop next to me do one on a SB trike 3 years ago but I did not keep the pics I took and they are no longer there.

A welder friend of mine said he would do the change. I would like to cut the crossmember ahead of time if possible and change the pan. Then he would just finish the crossmember. or should I just let him cut it where he figures?

is it easier to weld if the pan is off or can all the welding be done with the pan still on?

Does the water pump need to come off of its support in order to complete the procedure?

any thoughts??

NOTE...please save all the banter of Boss Hoss should have, could have.... would have...much appreciated and thanks

[Carl La Fong]

Here's how I did mine.
http://jkcallin.blogspot.com/search?upd ... results=24
You can do it with the pan on, I suppose. It might be easier with it off, I dunno.
No comments about whether BH should have done it. I don't want to upset the faint of heart

[CanuckHoss]

Here's how I did mine.
http://jkcallin.blogspot.com/search?upd ... results=24
You can do it with the pan on, I suppose. It might be easier with it off, I dunno.
No comments about whether BH should have done it. I don't want to upset the faint of heart

thanks Carl..your's looks like it was easier due to the water pump and bracket not being there in the way...that is my concern is that I dont want to cut it where it might be a hassle for my welder friend.

[GordonBH]

Hi Barry,

I'm going down that route this week to get to my infamous "pan rattle" and I am adopting the CLF method and look. With square flanges and four holes each.

Great trick the saw-guide worm clamp - thanks John. I've measured that 1 1/2" in from the side rails will allow plenty of clearance for the pan to drop (including its flange)

I think that the waterpump needs removal as the mount plate need to be cut off the crossmember anyway. I'm also slicing the pump plate fore and aft just indide the left most slots to aid welding access and making a removable pump plate which I'll remount with 2 crossbars. I'm also changing out my coolant at the same time.

The alternator also will come off for ease of welding access - my welder will do it for a 6-pack so I want to make it easy for him.

I'm intrigued to learn of the inside flange welding as my flanges will be cut from solid 4mm plate. I'd have to make big 1 1/2" holes in their centres

ps Had heavy family member health issues over the holidays so not been in my garage at all.

[Carl La Fong]

I may have been unclear in my description of the flanges. I cut holes in them with a 1 1/2 hole saw. Then they were slipped over the cross member and welded from the inside, same as is done for exhaust headers.

[GordonBH]

Thanks Carl, I get it now, that would help with neatness in the flanges.

[petitemoose]

Look at Bill's post about Gladiator. There is a close up pic of how Summit did it

[CanuckHoss]

Look at Bill's post about Gladiator. There is a close up pic of how Summit did it

I saw that..very nice..looks like they used the frame joiners that Boss Hoss uses on the top of the frame maybe?