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That's a nice blue.

Very Nicely Done! Don't see any Powder coating where it Doesn't belong
I agree with Elvis ... Nice color choice of Blue

There's a few more things back together again. I had the transmission taken apart and rebuilt after finding more "red flags". Then, I found the big ends of the ProComp rods were not in spec , so they are at the machine shop. .

Impressive, totally impressive.
All of your time and effort will pay-off on the day, and everyday after that you fire that bitch-up and roll down the street.
Have you considered eliminating the fuse panel and relays, reducing the wiring by 70%? It will can bus to your Holley EFI. I have this on Berzerker.
http://www.racepaksmartwire.com/

Thanks for the kind words. After seeing your post ,and watching a few vids, I spoke with one of their techs. That is a very nice piece. For circuits requiring larger than 14 ga. wire,you can use two outputs. I liked that you can program the unit to handle inrush currents higher than 20 amps like the fan. But, I'll put it on hold since I just bought a new set of AFR 195s and the units price was higher than those. Plus at the end of the project will be the paint expense. thanks for the link.jeff

Wow

Both you guys are doing such a fine job making an awesome machine. This is inspiring.

Great job

Imzz4 wrote:Thanks for the kind words. After seeing your post ,and watching a few vids, I spoke with one of their techs. That is a very nice piece. For circuits requiring larger than 14 ga. wire,you can use two outputs. I liked that you can program the unit to handle inrush currents higher than 20 amps like the fan. But, I'll put it on hold since I just bought a new set of AFR 195s and the units price was higher than those. Plus at the end of the project will be the paint expense. thanks for the link.jeff

Silver plated stranded copper conductors insulated with PTFE (TEFLON) MIL22579, best shit available, ultra tough, has much higher ampacity as compared to standard, stranded copper wire conductors as found at NAPA, etc; a single 16 gauge will easily handle 20amp on a 5’run.

Everything takes longer to do it right, as usual. The ProComp rods that came with the Scat rotating assy. had no torque information . From Googling, I read plenty of "not good" stories about them. The first four I measured were .0003" out of round, so I bought ARP bolts and sent them to the machine shop. I will definitely have them back this Monday, just like last Monday.
I purchased my hyd roller from Midway Performance in Mt.Carmel,Pa. the other day. Dan has ground the last three cams for me.I recommend anyone to speak with him if you are looking to change yours. I have always liked the service and the performance. He made me a 223-228 @.050 w .563 lift on a 110. It was here two days later after the phone call. And for $240.
Thats the latest "snail progress".

I have a few more things finished and together..some day there'll be nothing left to make, polish, or buy. That will be strange !

Wow. nice work.

I'm totally blown away by the talent and skills that you and others possess and display. Hell, I couldn't build a three wheel tricycle that I could trust for my granddaughter to ride, let alone build the incredible machines that you guys put together. Makes me wish I could go back and relive my childhood and do a few things differently to better understand mechanics and develop similar skills. (I might do a few other things differently as well.)

Hats off to all of you talented guys...........

Jeff,
the attention to detail is incredible, really nice work. Love the blue and how you angled the engine guards.

Jeff , looks like you have plenty of room for a mechanical fuel pump if you wanted one .

Hi Jack, Yes one will fit. I made the downtubes 2 inches forward of the stock frame so the fan could go behind the radiator, which allowed room for it. I actually bought a nice chrome pump to use on it. Then I became very interested in the Atomic FI system about the same time I decided to stretch and narrow the tank . But , then I switched gears and bought the Holly EFi in part because the tech guy was VERY helpful and worked with me since I needed to modify the rear fuel rail . I also went with their setup because the ECU is mounted away from the heat source ,and I had concerns about MSD ramping the fuel pump speed up and down to maintain pressure when the pump is somewhat far ahead of the injectors. The Holly has more wires to contend with but their harness is gonna be cut apart, shortened , and cleaned up anyhow. I just finished the block off plate for the pump awhile ago,,, plenty to do yet . thanks

Duh, sorry I didn't realize it was fuel injected . Fantastic work as usual !

Awesome!

As I was making giant progress last week, I found a snag in that the new flex plate teeth slightly drag against the starter gear , as the crank is turned by hand. A dial indicator measures a total runout of.045" which doesn't seem outrageous. The starter drive is not the problem after taking that apart.. At this point I'm fairly certain that the two mounting holes are going to be filed in the right direction so it can be mounted slightly forward just a bit...

I guess it was better to find out now and fix it before it caused any damage

After I took it apart, a better solution was to remove material from the clutch shaft where the gear rests against. Now the problem is gone. It would have ground the teeth and perhaps worse. I did notice someone had over tightened the nut at the batt terminal. This caused the copper plate inside the solenoid to twist so it was no longer parallel with the copper contact on the plunger. It was only touching one side. This could act the same as having too small gauge of a wire. Its easy to correct should you want to look at yours if there are any starting problems. I'm wondering if this is why there are hammer marks on my solenoid housing..

correction, I meant the terminal for the motor wire,( on the right) . that is the one that can be "twisted".....

The brake parts are finished and line up nice, the pedal matches the angle of the crash bars .Floorboards are Kyurakyn. They appear to match the same splined pattern at the ends as BossHoss, but they have more teeth and do not mesh perfectly. I have a threaded hole back under the frame for an additional brace or support (later) so it'll stay put if I put my weight on them.

The wire looms fit better the more I cut them down.Then my lathe took a dump before I got started on the other side. The Dc drive went to ground and it got really dark in the garage! (the plug wire isn't really that close to the pipe)

Another "bracket "finished enough to move on to something else..

And the high quality work continues to show and the suspense builds. Can't wait to see the finished product! Again, I'm in awe of your talent.

It was finally time to buy a new PC925, so I did. Now the wiring is finished in record time, 20 minutes. Also, for those who have their valve covers chromed, watch out for for potential disastrous problems.... I removed all the plating with a fair amount of time. Now thats one more thing not to worry about.. jeff