I ended up buying a few items as recommended. I got a second floor jack, I already had 1 floor jack, a fold up 2&1/2 ton engine hoist that really helped getting the trans out of the rear frame. I marked all bolts and zip lock bagged em and wrote on the bags what they were for, which really helped as there was about 12 days between removal and reinstall. I checked around for freight haulers and ended up going with the recommended Old Dominion freight lines. Cost was 236 out there and 265 coming back. I dropped off the trans at their warehouse and picked it up there also. I sent the trans to where Tom wanted it sent. 4 days hauling each way. So to start got the bike jacked up on jack stands on the front half set stable, ended up having to get some thick washers to level out the stands so they all contacted the frame, duct taped them to the bottom of the stands. Leveled out everything then pulled skid pan,(even though everyone says take it off, I want it on) dropped the trans pan to start draining the trans oil. Pulled the battery, fuel pump, and started removing electrical needed, removed blinkers and pulled them up to the front. I released the rear axle, to loosen the drive belt.
Got some 1 inch square tubing and drilled holes in the tube on centerline with the holes for support the trans in the battery box mounts to the trans with all thread to fit, when sliding the frames apart. Then I raised the back half of the fuel tank to gain access to the upper frame bolts. Pulled the tail pipes off at the base of the headers, removed trans linkage, and then it was on. One word of advice, when doing this, while battery and all electrical is intact, remove the flywheel bolts while you have a starter, makes it easier than rotating the flywheel with a screwdriver like I did. Got my floor jacks positioned on each side frame. Pulled the frame bolts and slid the rear half back while keeping it on the floor jacks. Luckily the frame joints were well anti seized so it came apart easy. I bought some eye bolts to fit in the trans top, removed the trans support bar and put the eye bolts in. got the engine hoist attached to the eye bolts and raised up on the hoist until I could then removed the other support bar and removed the trans to frame bolts and got up on it. Getting the trans out of the rear frame was a good little chore but it did go ok. One pinched finger getting trans out. Found a pallet and put my four eye bolts in the top of the trans so I could attached the trans to the pallet with plumbers tape and lag bolts and took to the shippers. So while it was gone, I installed a serpentine belt kit. Only issue with this was I had to shim my alternator mounting bracket out to align the belt with the harmonic balance. I thought my belt was too short but I ended up being able to put it on the balancer then with the alternator pulley off the alternator,
I put the belt on the alt. pulley and slipped it onto the alternator shaft, great fit and snug and was able to then adjust belt snug. I also pulled all of my brakes off and apart and cleaned each of the calipers, pistons and all. I also pulled the forks off and drained the oil from them, hung em up overnight to let all the oil drain. Got new 15 wt oil and filled the 750ml. the main reason I did this is basically the factory recommendation of "About" 3/4 of a quart. From my knowledge of forks it is very important to have the correct amount of oil in them for them to operate correctly and evenly. So now I have 750ml in each as I have read and been told this is the correct amount. So on to oil coolers, I ordered a Derale double pass heat sink cooler and was told of mounting to the underside of the lower air dam. Only problem is it is too long to fit in there. I ended up cutting one end off of it and shortening it 3 inches. The internals of a double pass cooler has vanes all around a pipe for cooling, and one of the vanes goes all the way through and that splits the cooler for oil to travel from one end to the other. The end inside I did not know exactly how much room the oil needed to pass, so I ground out about 1/4 inch to allow the oil to pass correctly as I do not want a restriction caused in my cooler. I then take it to my local machine shop and have him TIG weld it back together. I also cut out a cardboard template to fit for my frame gussets. I took my rear frame and got the gussets cut and MIG welded in and sanded and painted with some spray epoxy paint and put several coats on it and they turned out good.
I got the trans back and used the engine hoist to put the trans back in the rear frame and made the mistake of tightening the trans to rear frame bolts before I stated going back together with it. I’ll get back to that in a minute. I and new stock trans cooler as when old trans went I did not want to use old cooler with possible debris left inside, also got all new trans cooler lines from trans to magnafine filter to cooler to heat sink cooler to trans, ordered and got a new torque converter from the factory and was kind of questionable as the paint job did appear suspect of being brand new. Installed the new converter and started getting the frame back together. So no one is helping me and I need to slide the frame together.
I get it aligned up and then get my ratchet straps (from tying the bike down to haul it) and I wrap a strap on each side's front foot peg to frame down tube next to the bell housing end to end on the strap. I then snug up each strap a little at a time to pull the rear frame together to the front frame, several times side to side, and slides right together with new coat of anti-seize, snugging up evenly and frame is rejoined, stuff all the bolts into the frame. Back to my rear trans to frame bolts being tight, when I get the frame together I notice the end of the front pulley is touching the frame right in the corner and will not let the pulley rotate. I call Tom and try to explain and he asks if my trans bolts are tight, after I try to explain what my issue is. He says the trans to frame underside bolts are not to be tightened till last. (Another brain fart on my behalf) So my day is over as it has been a full day by myself.
So next day my HD bud comes over and we tackle it again installing all parts removed, bolting flywheel up, electrical, trans linkage, belt tension and all other issues. I also install as per wags instructions of toggle switch wiring to allow trans temp to be used on water temp gauge. Easy good directions found on Wags help site, with switch down reads trans temp, switch up read water temp
Next is startup. All goes well and I test ride around town, doing like Tom says run the shit out of it. So I do and it feels great to be back on it. Next day me and my HD bud go on a area ride about 50 miles and about 2/3 way through the ride, bud is riding behind me and comes up and says I got a fluid leak, turns out the magnafine filter was resting on tail pipe and melted it just enough to cause a slight leak. Check fluid level several times on way home, never enough to change view on sight tube. Made it home and relocated another magnafine away from the tail pipe. I also then opened the melted magnafine just to see the internals of it and there was no melted debris, but went ahead and dropped the pan and flushed the oil out just in case of coolers and lines and replaced with new dexron 6. Local riding next few days and then went to corpus to HD shop, on way there trans was running a little warmer than normal, and on way back was running considerable hotter, up to like 210. Got me home, called and stated my issues and was requested to pull the pressure regulator and check for debris and also check for fluid volume from trans. Pulled return line from trans and fluid provided about 1 quart at idle in 30 seconds which was stated at 1 gallon in 2 minutes. Fluid flow is acceptable. Dropped pan, pulled pressure regulator front inside and disassembled as directed. Some light debris as pictured but not much, one issue was found on magnet in pan a small piece of metal maybe 3/16 x 3/16 X1/8 inch, see picture.
Put back together and same issue runs good when cold when fluid warms up, 1st gear does not stay engaged unless under load, I.E., when down shifting it hesitates to go into gear, sometimes not at all till the motor is accelerated. Anyway, the phone diagnosis is the output shaft seals did not seat right on installation. Will remove it from bike and send back when I get home from work at the end of May. Here are some pic’s to go with the story.
Darryl
Once again, thanks to all who made this possible by either performing the work and answering the phone when I had numerous questions or by walking me through it before hand here on this site while in the chat room, Tom & Adrian, Mike, Curtis, Shane, David & Bob. All ya'lls help is appreciated.
Shows trans supported and ready to split frame,,,
Shows frame split,,,
Shows trans out of rear frame,,,,
shows ready to ship
Shows serpentine belt installed
this is debris from when I pulled my pan to check the pressure regulator and this was attached to magnet on pan.
Gussets installed
Darryl
looking forward to the book Darryl.
