New Product - Neutrino Black Box

[V-MAN]

Check out this new product, It's made by a company called Neutrino. It's a new style power distribution panel that's small enough to fit about anywhere (2X3X.9) and get this NO MORE FUSES to carry! It's a user set breaker panel ... very cool and very high tech. I'd like to order one and try it out but don't have time to do a proper install right now and it's expensive.

There is a video showing setup and how it works, also shows the capability of the "box". I can see the WR or the R1200 gettting one of these. With the WR I would replace the fuse box completely, the R1200 I would add the Neutrino as my secondary panel.

http://www.advdesigns.com/nenepodicosy.html

Anybody seen anything like this before? Thoughts on unit, good/bad? Damn, I want one or two or three ...

[CanuckHoss]

Very very cool indeed...someone was thinking outside the box...I just added another fuse box to my 502 trike and this would have been a nice addition

[V-MAN]

Very very cool indeed...someone was thinking outside the box...I just added another fuse box to my 502 trike and this would have been a nice addition

A day late huh Barry? I am sure I will end up ordering at least one, probably won't be for a little while so busy with "stuff". I'll be sure to post on real world experience once I have it installed and put it through it's paces ... I figure the WR will see the harshest enviroment. If it survives that then it's pretty robust unit!!

[mdwdvm]

I installed a similar power distribution module on the Gangsta trike that we had - here's the link to information about the one I used:

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/80121/60 ... ON-MODULE/

It was one of the better upgrades I added to the trike - it not only simplified the addition of other accessories, but it allowed me to customize them in terms of when I wanted them to power up and go on or off and what level of protection I wanted for that particular circuit. The main difference from the one you've shown here is that it required a computer to set up the device or to make adjustments (which I never had to do after I installed it). The one you show here is about $100 more expensive, but being able to access, see what's happening and make adjustments through your smartphone would be a big advantage.

I've thought about putting a PDM on my bike since getting it, but just haven't done so as yet. If I decide to go that route, the smartphone option will be a strong consideration for me. Thanks for sharing.

[Grand Canard]

This is what's on Berzerker, Racepak Smartwire; it's the bomb! Can's to my FAST EFI and Racepak IQ3.
http://www.racepaksmartwire.com/

other options and just as good if not better;
Cosworth, match the power manager with the dash and ECU, world class shit right there.
http://www.cosworth.com/products/racing ... ts/hyllus/

Cosworth Power manager

Motec is another good company.

[502wingman]

Wow, wish we had stuff like that 25 years ago putting all the goddies on the Gold Wings.

[V-MAN]

I installed a similar power distribution module on the Gangsta trike that we had - here's the link to information about the one I used:

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/80121/60 ... ON-MODULE/

It was one of the better upgrades I added to the trike - it not only simplified the addition of other accessories, but it allowed me to customize them in terms of when I wanted them to power up and go on or off and what level of protection I wanted for that particular circuit. The main difference from the one you've shown here is that it required a computer to set up the device or to make adjustments (which I never had to do after I installed it). The one you show here is about $100 more expensive, but being able to access, see what's happening and make adjustments through your smartphone would be a big advantage.

I've thought about putting a PDM on my bike since getting it, but just haven't done so as yet. If I decide to go that route, the smartphone option will be a strong consideration for me. Thanks for sharing.

Mike that is interesting product also, never seen or heard of it before. Glad to hear you had good results that you would consider it again ... they are both very similiar. I would probably go with Neutrino BB just for the fact it can be accessed anyplace/anytime without need for computer. Keep us posted if you get the BB before I do if you would?

Don

This is what's on Berzerker, Racepak Smartwire; it's the bomb! Can's to my FAST EFI and Racepak IQ3.
http://www.racepaksmartwire.com/

other options and just as good if not better;
Cosworth, match the power manager with the dash and ECU, world class shit right there.
http://www.cosworth.com/products/racing ... ts/hyllus/

PM.jpg

Motec is another good company.

Ricky - That is some bad ass shit right there! WOW, after reading through some of the tech specs of the units you posted I did not know some of that technology existed. I'd really like to get a chance to see your bike in person sometime ...

Don

Wow, wish we had stuff like that 25 years ago putting all the goddies on the Gold Wings.

Peter - I hear you!! I wish stuff like that was avail even 5 years ago!! Would have simplified things and kept harness' smaller/cleaner ... You know what that means right? Time to start another project?!

Don

[Iron Maiden]

Where was this thread a few weeks ago I believe Mike Kelly just finished the organ donor's wiring.

[petitemoose]

I know Right!?!?!?

[mdwdvm]

[Keep us posted if you get the BB before I do if you would?

I've ordered the Neutrino Black Box for my big block bike and will provide an update once I have it installed.

Cheers,
Mike

[V-MAN]

[Keep us posted if you get the BB before I do if you would?

I've ordered the Neutrino Black Box for my big block bike and will provide an update once I have it installed.

Cheers,
Mike

That's great Mike, looking forward to hearing a report from you!!

Don

[mdwdvm]

I received the Neutrino Black Box at the end of last week but didn't have a chance to install until a couple of days ago. At this point I have it completely hooked up, but not totally finished with securing all my wiring, in part because I'm installing a keyless ignition at the same time and I have a few more things to do there before I'm finished. I'm also installing a trigger switch to the NBB (described later) before I'm completely done.

As for the NBB - it seems to be a very solid unit and I'm confident I'm going to really like it. It's compact and well made and the installation is straightforward with easy-to-follow instructions. There is tons of flexibility in how you set up the circuits and the ability to make adjustments in your settings via the phone is very helpful.

Compared to the other PDM that I had on my trike, this unit is definitely better from a programming standpoint. There is only one feature of the PDM on the trike I liked that is not on the NBB - that being the ability to set a timed delay for a circuit to activate after you turn on the ignition. Not a big deal, but with that feature you could delay start of HID lighting for example, in order to preserve the initial power draw for your starter.

One issue I encountered is that for some reason the NBB does not like the circuit I have for my air ride compressor. When I have it connected through the NBB it will initiate power to the compressor for a microsecond when I hit the switch, but then the NBB circuit will disengage. It doesn't show signs of the circuit breaker flipping, but essentially it goes dead. I've exchanged a number of emails with the tech support department on this - and they're not sure why this is happening. They've suspected that it may be the initial draw requirements of the electric motor, but I'm not seeing a voltage drop that they would expect if that were the case. At any rate they're doing some experimentation on their end and think they may be able to reprogram my unit to get rid of the issue. The reality for me is that I'm quite OK with simply leaving my air ride circuit outside of the NBB and wiring it direct as it was before. The benefits of the NBB for the other accessories I have running through it are sufficient for me, and I don't anticipate removing the NBB and sending it back to them for any additional programming. I should say that they have been extremely responsive and helpful in trying to figure this out - very impressive.

The only other observation I have is that in order to connect the NBB to your phone and see the data or make changes, your ignition has to be turned on to fire the trigger wire to the NBB (the trigger wire is connected to an ignition on wire, such as your taillights). Unfortunately that means that your water pump, fuel pump and lights are running while the connection is being made and while you're evaluating the settings and information +/- making any adjustments in settings. So to avoid this and allow me to do all of this without the ignition on, I'm going to wire the trigger wire through a toggle on/on switch with two sources of power. One will be through the taillight connection, so the NBB will activate when the ignition is on as intended. The other switch setting will be direct battery power, which will allow me to flip the switch with the bike off and the NBB will activate, which will then mean I can connect the phone and do anything I want without the fuel pump, water pump and lights running. The other advantage will be that I can use this setting when the bike is parked if I want to power LED lighting, etc. (There are other ways to insure power to your accent lighting with the bike off - you can set the circuits you want to shut off after the ignition is turned off - only when the voltage drops below a setting your indicate. That means the circuit is live as long as the voltage is above that setting - so you have power to your switch for the lighting or other accessory all the time.)

I should note that some of the features of the NBB are not that useful to me, at least for my setup. For example, there is an external air temperature probe the displays on your phone - I ride with my phone in my pocket, so that will only be visible to me when I'm stopped with my phone out of my pocket and the bike on, or when I have the trigger switch I'm installing activated with the bike off. Similarly, the NBB has direction, speed and altitude displayed on the phone, which again is not as useful if you don't have the phone in a holder that you can see while riding. For me those features just aren't important enough to put my phone into a cradle on my bars or somewhere that I can see it while riding.

Sorry for the long winded 'review', but the short story is that in my opinion the NBB is an upgrade that is well worth the money and will simplify many wiring and circuit challenges.

[V-MAN]

Mike -

Thanks for your initial review of the NBB, sounds like it's everything the manf advertised it to be. It also sounds like customer support is pretty damn good too (first sign of a good company)! I imagine if you wanted to send unit back they could program a "delay" circuit? Now I'm chomping at the bit for one!

I like the keyless ignition idea and had installed one in the past on a motorcycle I no longer own. What unit are you using? I used an RFID type but can't remember the name of company (will look in toolbox for paperwork). I know I don't have alzheimer's because I took Bill's test below!!!!!

Don

[mdwdvm]

I like the keyless ignition idea and had installed one in the past on a motorcycle I no longer own. What unit are you using? I used an RFID type but can't remember the name of company (will look in toolbox for paperwork).

Don,

I've installed two items from Digital Guard Dawg. One is a starter relay that is RFID controlled to a key fob. I've also had them build me a push button ignition switch that uses an RFID relay as well. Both of the relays are tied to the same RFID key fob. The keyless ignition harness they built for me is not a regular stock item for them, but they've built them in the past for Norton motorcycles - and they refer to it as a 'Norton keyless ignition'.

The end result is that without the key fob present to activate the relays, neither the ignition circuit nor the starter circuit will work. The key fobs (yes, I bought extra) can be set to manual where you have to push a button and then have 30 seconds to turn on the ignition and hit the starter button or to automatic, meaning that the relays automatically recognize the key fob and go active as long as the key fob is within 10 feet.

From a theft deterrent standpoint, clearly it's not bullet proof as someone could either replace the RFID relays with regular ones, jump wire the ignition circuit and jump the starter............so it's not fool proof. But I figure that anyone with that amount determination and time is going to be able to take the bike anyway. (And my alarm system is another deterrent for those types).

For me one of the biggest advantages is simply not having a key and/or key ring sticking out from the switch on the side panel and rattling around in the wind. Obviously it requires that you always have a key fob with you (just like a key), and if I want back-up I can keep a key fob set on manual locked in the storage compartment. (Set on manual so that it's not constantly keeping the relays active from proximity).

[V-MAN]

I like the keyless ignition idea and had installed one in the past on a motorcycle I no longer own. What unit are you using? I used an RFID type but can't remember the name of company (will look in toolbox for paperwork).

Don,

I've installed two items from Digital Guard Dawg. One is a starter relay that is RFID controlled to a key fob. I've also had them build me a push button ignition switch that uses an RFID relay as well. Both of the relays are tied to the same RFID key fob. The keyless ignition harness they built for me is not a regular stock item for them, but they've built them in the past for Norton motorcycles - and they refer to it as a 'Norton keyless ignition'.

The end result is that without the key fob present to activate the relays, neither the ignition circuit nor the starter circuit will work. The key fobs (yes, I bought extra) can be set to manual where you have to push a button and then have 30 seconds to turn on the ignition and hit the starter button or to automatic, meaning that the relays automatically recognize the key fob and go active as long as the key fob is within 10 feet.

From a theft deterrent standpoint, clearly it's not bullet proof as someone could either replace the RFID relays with regular ones, jump wire the ignition circuit and jump the starter............so it's not fool proof. But I figure that anyone with that amount determination and time is going to be able to take the bike anyway. (And my alarm system is another deterrent for those types).

For me one of the biggest advantages is simply not having a key and/or key ring sticking out from the switch on the side panel and rattling around in the wind. Obviously it requires that you always have a key fob with you (just like a key), and if I want back-up I can keep a key fob set on manual locked in the storage compartment. (Set on manual so that it's not constantly keeping the relays active from proximity).

Mike -

Thanks, I have heard of DGD before and looks like a great product. That is not the one I used, I haven't found the paperwork on the unit I used. I do remember the company was out of Germany and was also a quality unit ... It had a fob that needed carried to activate the ignition circuit. It also had a tiny rfid "capsule" that was sewed into my glove palm, it worked very well. I remember looking at DGD same time but my unit was a lot less $$$$ and I thought I'd try it. Glad I did, it worked flawless for 3-4 years I owned the bike afterwards and caan only imagine it's still working?? No mechanical parts so it should be ...

Don